Lentil stew is the simplest stew there is, and at the same time the one that most often disappoints. Either it turns into a porridge with no texture, or the lentils refuse to soften however long they cook. Both problems have the same explanation, and it comes down to which lentils you have in the bag.
Red lentils cannot hold their shape
This is the point that decides the whole stew: red lentils are hulled and split. The skin has been removed and the seed divided in two, and so there is nothing holding them together. They fall apart after ten to fifteen minutes, and that is the intention. Red lentils are for dal, soups and thick, creamy stews where you want the lentils to disappear into the sauce.
If you want a stew with pieces you can feel, you need whole lentils with the skin on: green, brown or black beluga. They cook in 20 to 30 minutes and keep their shape. Swap one for the other and you get a different dish from the one you planned, and no cooking time in the world will put it right.
A second thing to know: acid slows lentils down. Tomato, vinegar and lemon make the lentils take far longer to soften. So cook the lentils almost through first, and add the tomato towards the end. Salt can go in early, it does no harm.
Lentils should not be soaked
Unlike chickpeas and beans, lentils need no soaking. Rinse them in cold water and look out for small stones, that is all. Soak them anyway and the cooking time shortens and they turn mushy more easily.
The stew, step by step
Fry onion, garlic and ideally carrot in oil until soft. Add cumin, coriander and turmeric from the spice shelf and let the spices fry along for half a minute, so they release their aroma into the oil. This is the difference between a stew that tastes of spices and one that tastes of dust.
Add the lentils and water or stock, roughly three times as much liquid as lentils. Cook until the lentils are nearly done. Then in with the chopped tomatoes and coconut milk, and let the whole thing reduce together for twenty minutes. Season with salt, and finish with something fresh: lemon, vinegar or fresh coriander.
How to adjust it
Too thin: carry on cooking uncovered, or mash some of the lentils against the sides. Too thick: loosen with stock rather than water, so you do not dilute the flavour. Dull: it is almost always salt or acid that is missing, not more spice. The rest of the spices and store-cupboard staples are under rice and staples, and if you want to go further in the same direction, butter chicken and hummus are close relatives.
Frequently asked questions
How long should lentils be cooked?
Red, split lentils need 10 to 15 minutes. Green and brown 20 to 30. Black beluga around 25. Tomato and other acids in the pot lengthen the time noticeably.
How do you make lentil stew with coconut milk?
Fry the spices in oil, cook the lentils in stock until they are almost soft, and stir in the coconut milk towards the end. Coconut milk that boils hard and long can split, so keep it over a low heat.
How long does lentil stew keep in the fridge?
Three to four days in a sealed container. It thickens in the fridge, so loosen it with a little stock or water when reheating.
Can lentil stew be reheated?
Yes, and many people think it tastes better the next day. Heat it slowly and stir now and then, so it does not catch on the bottom. It can also be frozen.