Tofu is made from soy milk set with a coagulant – usually nigari or calcium sulphate – so that it separates into curds and liquid. The curds are then pressed in moulds. The process is the same as for fresh cheese, only with soy instead of milk, and it has been used in China for more than a thousand years.
The flavour is deliberately neutral. Tofu is not meant to taste of much on its own; it takes up marinade, sauce and fat from whatever it is cooked with. That is why dry, unseasoned tofu disappoints so many people who try it for the first time.
The three types worth knowing
Silken tofu
Kinugoshi. This one is not pressed – the soy milk sets straight in the pack, and the result is almost like a firm pudding. It falls apart if you try to fry it. Use it in miso soup, blended smooth into dressings and desserts, or cold with soy sauce and spring onion.
Firm tofu
Pressed until most of the liquid is out. It holds its shape in a wok or a pan, and it is the most versatile. This is the tofu to buy if you are only buying one.
Pressed tofu
Tau kwa and similar. Denser again, almost like a hard cheese, and often lightly salted. It stands up to hard frying and can be cut into thin strips without breaking up.
Press it, or it will not fry
Firm tofu still holds a lot of water, and water turns to steam. Put the block between two tea towels with something heavy on top for 20–30 minutes. You then get browned surfaces instead of a pale crust that sticks to the pan.
An alternative: freeze the tofu and thaw it again. The ice crystals leave cavities, and the texture turns spongy and much better at soaking up marinade. It is not the same tofu afterwards, but many prefer it that way in stews.
How to get crisp tofu
- Press out the water.
- Cut into cubes and toss them in cornflour, not plain flour.
- Fry in plenty of oil over a good heat, and leave them undisturbed until one side releases on its own.
- Sauce goes on right at the end. If the sauce hits the pan too early, the tofu turns soft again.
Storage
Opened tofu goes into a box with fresh water in the fridge, and the water is changed daily. It then keeps for three to four days. Silken tofu in an unopened carton keeps at room temperature until the use-by date.
Frequently asked questions
What does tofu taste like? Little on its own – mild, slightly nutty, with a roundness from the soy. The flavour comes from what you do with it.
Are tofu and tempeh the same? No. Tempeh is whole soy beans fermented into a firm cake, with a pronounced flavour and visible beans. Tofu is coagulated soy milk.
Can tofu be eaten raw? Yes. Tofu is already cooked when you buy it. Cold silken tofu with soy sauce, sesame oil and spring onion is a common dish in its own right.
Why does my tofu fall apart? Almost always the wrong type. Silken tofu will not take frying. Check the pack before you start.
What is the difference between firm and extra firm? How much water has been pressed out. Extra firm is the driest and takes the most handling, firm is a little juicier.
See our full tofu range, and soy sauces for the marinade.
