Falafel are deep-fried balls of ground pulses and herbs, found all over the Middle East. In Egypt they are traditionally made from beans and are called ta'amiya; in the Levant – Lebanon, Syria, Palestine – chickpeas are the rule. It is the latter version most people know.
The rule that decides everything
You have to use dried chickpeas that have been soaked, never tinned or pre-cooked ones. This is not a nicety, it is the difference between falafel and a lump that dissolves in the fryer. Cooked chickpeas hold too much water and too little remaining starch to bind. Soaked, raw chickpeas grind to a coarse, dry mixture that keeps its shape.
Soak them in plenty of cold water for 12–24 hours. They double in size. Do not cook them.
Ingredients (about 20 pieces)
- 250 g dried chickpeas, soaked overnight
- 1 onion, in wedges
- 4 garlic cloves
- A large bunch of parsley and a smaller bunch of coriander, about 60 g in total
- 1.5 tsp ground cumin
- 1 tsp ground coriander
- 0.5 tsp cayenne pepper
- 1.5 tsp salt
- 1 tsp baking powder, added just before frying
- Neutral oil for deep-frying
How to make it
- Dry the chickpeas well after soaking. Excess water is the most common reason falafel fall apart.
- Blitz everything in a food processor apart from the baking powder. Pulse until the mixture is like coarse sand and holds together when you squeeze it. Do not take it to a puree.
- Let the mixture rest in the fridge for at least an hour. It becomes easier to shape.
- Stir in the baking powder just before frying, and shape balls or flat patties with wet hands.
- Deep-fry at 170°C for 3–4 minutes until deep golden brown. Fry a few at a time so the oil keeps its temperature.
- Drain on a rack, not on paper – paper makes the underside soft.
In the oven or an air fryer?
It works, but the result is drier and less crisp. Brush with oil and cook at 200°C for 20–25 minutes, turning halfway. Deep-frying is what gives the thin, crisp crust against a moist, green centre.
What do you serve with it?
Lebanese flatbread, tahini sauce, tomato, cucumber and pickled red onion. The tahini sauce is tahini, lemon juice, garlic and water stirred until it is like thin yoghurt – it thickens before it thins, so just keep stirring. A pinch of sumac over the top adds acidity and colour.
Frequently asked questions
Why does my falafel fall apart? Almost always cooked or tinned chickpeas, too wet a mixture, or oil that is too cold. Check those three in that order.
Can the mixture be frozen? Yes, freeze the shaped balls raw on a tray and fry them straight from frozen, with an extra minute.
Why is my falafel brown inside? Too few herbs. A proper falafel should be clearly green where you cut it, and that takes more parsley than you think.
Can I use beans instead? Yes, that is the Egyptian version. Use dried broad beans, same method.
