Dried chilli is not just fresh chilli without the water. As a chilli dries, its flavour changes: it becomes sweeter and deeper, with notes of raisin, coffee, chocolate or smoke. In Mexican cooking, dried chillies are the very foundation, and each variety has its own job. Here are the ones worth knowing, and how to use them.
Fresh and dried chillies often have different names
What confuses most people is that many chillies change name when dried. A poblano becomes ancho. A mirasol becomes guajillo. A chilaca becomes pasilla, and a smoked jalapeño becomes chipotle. Same plant, but a completely different ingredient in the kitchen.
The most important dried chillies
| Chilli | Fresh form | Heat (Scoville) | Flavour | Used for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ancho | Poblano | 1,000–2,000 | Sweet, raisin, plum, coffee | Mole, enchilada sauce, chilli con carne |
| Guajillo | Mirasol | 2,500–5,000 | Tangy, berry, green tea | Birria, adobo, pozole, marinades |
| Pasilla | Chilaca | 1,000–2,500 | Earthy, raisin, bitter cocoa | Mole, salsa, sauces for fish |
| Mulato | Poblano (ripened longer) | 2,500–3,000 | Chocolate, liquorice, tobacco | Mole poblano |
| Chipotle morita | Jalapeño (smoked) | 2,500–8,000 | Smoke, fruit | Stews, salsa, marinades |
| Árbol | Árbol | 15,000–30,000 | Clean, sharp heat, slightly nutty | Salsa, chilli oil, extra heat |
| Habanero | Habanero | 100,000–350,000 | Fruity, floral, very hot | Yucatán salsas, hot sauce |
Ancho
Ancho is dried poblano and the most used dried chilli in Mexico. It is broad, wrinkled and dark reddish brown, and barely hot. The flavour is sweet and rich, and it gives body and colour to sauces. If you are unsure where to start, start here. See Xatze Ancho Chilli and Kaktus Ancho Chilli.
Guajillo
Guajillo has smooth, shiny reddish-brown skin and gives sauces a clear red colour. It is tangier and fresher than ancho, with mild to medium heat. Guajillo is the chilli that gives birria its deep red colour. See Xatze Guajillo Chilli.
Pasilla
Pasilla means roughly little raisin, which describes both its look and its flavour. It is long, narrow and almost black, with an earthy, slightly bitter taste. It works well in sauces for seafood and in mole. See Kaktus Pasilla Chilli.
Mulato
Mulato comes from the same plant as ancho but is left to ripen longer before drying. It turns almost black and tastes of chocolate and liquorice. Together with ancho and pasilla it makes up the trio in classic mole poblano. See Xatze Mulato.
Chipotle
Chipotle is smoked jalapeño, and the only one of these that tastes of smoke. It has its own guide: What is chipotle? See Xatze Chipotle Morita.
Árbol
Chile de árbol is small, thin and bright red, and it is there for the heat. It adds little other flavour, which is exactly why it is useful: one or two árbol in a sauce of ancho and guajillo add heat without changing the balance. See Xatze Árbol Chilli and Kaktus Árbol Chilli.
Habanero
Dried habanero is among the hottest chillies you can buy. It tastes fruity and almost floral, but treat it with respect. Half a chilli goes a long way in a whole pot. See Xatze Habanero.
How to use dried chillies
- Clean. Wipe the chilli, snip off the stem and shake out the seeds. Remove the pale ribs inside if you want less heat.
- Toast. Place the chillies in a hot, dry pan for 20 to 30 seconds per side until fragrant and slightly soft. Do not let them blacken, or they turn bitter.
- Soak. Pour over just-boiled water and leave for 15 to 20 minutes until completely soft.
- Blend. Blend the chillies smooth with a little of the soaking water, garlic, onion or tomato. Taste the water first. If it is bitter, use stock or fresh water instead.
- Fry. Fry the chilli paste in a little oil for a few minutes before adding the rest of the dish. This rounds out the flavour.
For a good Mexican chilli sauce, a handy rule of thumb is guajillo for colour and freshness, ancho for sweetness and body, and one or two árbol for heat. That is essentially the base of birria, and it works just as well in enchilada sauce and chilli con carne.
Storage
Store dried chillies airtight, dark and cool. They keep for up to a year. A good dried chilli should be slightly soft and pliable, almost like a raisin. If it is hard, brittle and pale, it has lost much of its flavour. Ground chilli loses flavour faster than whole, so buy whole chillies if you have time to soak them.
Frequently asked questions
Which dried chilli is the mildest?
Ancho and pasilla are the mildest, at roughly 1,000 to 2,500 Scoville. They are more about flavour than heat.
What is the difference between ancho and guajillo?
Ancho is sweet, rich and barely hot. Guajillo is tangier, thinner-fleshed and a little hotter, and gives a clearer red colour. They are often used together.
Can I use chilli flakes instead of whole dried chillies?
Chilli flakes add heat, but not the rich flavour and colour you get from ancho or guajillo. In a Mexican sauce they are not a good substitute.
Why did my sauce turn bitter?
Usually because the chillies were toasted too long, or the soaking water was bitter. Toast only until fragrant, and taste the water before using it.
Where can I buy dried Mexican chillies?
At FUDI we have ancho, guajillo, pasilla, mulato, chipotle, árbol and habanero. Find them in the online store or in our stores at Holmen in Asker and Røa in Oslo. The full range is under chilli and Mexico.
Read more
- What is chipotle? Flavour, types and how to use it
- Taco Toppings and Sides – The Complete List for Taco Friday
