Chilli

Chilli in every form: whole dried chillies, ground chilli powder and flakes, chilli oil, sambal, gochujang and the whole shelf of chilli sauces. It is all gathered here, from mild smoked chipotle to sauces that hurt.

Find the right form

• Whole dried chillies – soaked and blended into a paste, or toasted dry first. They give the most depth, and you control the heat yourself by removing the seeds.
• Chilli powder and flakes – the quickest to use. Korean gochugaru flakes give colour and mild heat, while cayenne is pure strength.
• Chilli oil – the heat dissolves in the fat and spreads evenly through the dish. Sichuan versions also carry that tingling pepper.
• Chilli sauces – from sweet chilli and sriracha to hot sauce with habanero.
• Fermented chilli – gochujang and sambal, where the acidity and salt give a depth quite unlike fresh chilli.

About heat

Heat is measured in Scoville, but the numbers say little in practice. What is useful to know is that the heat sits in the membranes around the seeds rather than in the seeds themselves, and that it dissolves in fat and alcohol – not in water. If it gets too hot, milk, yoghurt or rice help more than a glass of water.

Dried Mexican chillies are rarely just hot. Ancho and pasilla are mild and fruity, chipotle is smoked and medium, while chile de árbol is the one that really stings.

Use it properly

Dried chillies and chilli powder need heat and fat to give up their flavour – fry them briefly in oil before the rest of the ingredients. Fresh chillies and chilli sauces go in later, often right at the end, since heat takes the fresh edge off them.

See also the spice range, Mexican spices and Asian spices.